Up North Road Trip
A solo road trip to Glacier, Yellowstone, and Grand Teton National Parks
June 2017
Table of Contents
But First, A Little Ramble...
I try to remind myself that this is just the standard "fun tax" that is a part of every adventure.
Examples of a “fun tax” might be a zipper that suddenly stops working on a tent, a blown tire on a highway, or a blister only halfway through a backpacking trip. I know people who let this small price prevent them from ever going into unfamiliar territory or trying something new or challenging. These little hurdles become so insurmountable that folks would rather just stay home. I don’t mind a “fun tax”. In fact, those little irksome moments usually become the best part of the story later.
Personally, I prefer to get the bad luck over with from the very beginning, so at least you can hope that everything will be on the up from there. (See a perfect example of this in our Costa Rica trip.) That is exactly what happened on this solo road trip to some Northern public lands, including my first ever visits to Glacier and Yellowstone National Parks.
Bighorn National Forest- Wyoming
This was the maiden voyage for some new gear, including my new Big Agnes Sleeping Pad and Big Agnes Roxy Ann 15 degree bag. John had the Big Agnes Lost Ranger 15 degree bag, which would zip together with my bag to make one cozy and romantic shared sleeping space. (The sleeping bag links will take you to a 3-in-1 sleep system that is the new model from Big Agnes. We just have the original sleeping bags without the extra outer bag.) I topped it all off with my Sea to Summit Inflatable Pillow to my camp bed feel a little more like home.
This set up was super comfy in the folded down back of my new-to-me Subaru Outback. I had been specifically looking for a vehicle whose back seats would fold down flat for car sleeping. It’s often how I “camp” when I’m by myself in temperate to cool weather because it requires no set up or break down. It also feels very safe when I don’t have even a dog with me to stand guard against unwanted visitors.
It was in fact my only option for how to spend my first night, utterly and hopelessly stuck in mud up to the fenders on the way to the trailhead I had planned to hike the next day.
I might as well settle in and enjoy the amazing sunset that was catching some distant rain, making it look as if they sky was bleeding. Not in a scary way, just gorgeous.
I hoped that in the morning, a Jeep with a winch may come driving up to recreate as well, or overnight the water might seep into the ground more and I could drive out on the harder surface. And, if push came to literal shove, I was only a few miles off the main road where I might be able to get a ride to cell phone service and get a tow. (It was another 2 years before I would finally get my Garmin inReach Mini, which could be a life saver in a future moment when I find myself out of cell phone service and out of options.)
I left the sunroof (yes! So happy to have a car with a sun roof now!) open so that the first light would wake me up to start looking for help.
I started up on the way to Mirror Lake and Lost Creek Lake. The trail was steep, but not too too bad since it wasn’t straight up.
I met a family about halfway up who warned me that the water crossings would get significantly higher as the day wore on because of uphill snow melting in the hotter afternoon sun.
I could see where Lost Creek Lake WOULD BE because the shape of the land made a little pocket for it, but the trail for the last .5 mile or so was completely covered in snow. I was approaching my desired turn around time and wasn’t sure I could navigate over the snow safely in an area I had never been before. I decided to call it since I had had enough bad luck already. I was glad that I had at least given it a try and did enjoy the scenery and even the added thrill of the high water crossings. I would love to go back again, further along into the melt season. (This was the end of June.)
Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area (Sullivan's Knob)
I should have done more research ahead of time because, at the time, I felt like there were limited hiking options here. There were a variety of trails with different lengths and viewpoints that I wish I could go back to do. I found one tiny hike to an overlook of the canyon and the water below. I would like to come back with John and the boat or even just my Inflatable Kayak to be able to access that part.
On the way back, I saw a wild horse, which was pretty awesome, and some old tipi rings.
Glacier National Park (Baring, St. Mary's, and Virginia Falls)
I made the most of the rest of the day hiking to 3 waterfalls, the first of which (Baring Falls) was a happy accident because the parking lot for the original trailhead I wanted was full.
The trail went down to this little pier on the lake with those big jagged mountains rising up behind it.
Then I went on to St. Mary’s and Virginia Falls and the trail got more crowded, but it was still okay. I managed to find little windows of solitude and ended up leap frogging with a young-at-heart hiking group that I chatted with when we crossed paths.
I surprisingly enjoyed the burn area because you could see those sharp peaks through the charred remains of trees and it made for a wide variety of wildflowers underneath.
I had some fun playing photographer with the bees on the wildflowers in front of the falls, changing up the focus of my lens. The camera I had with me at the time was a Sony. That one was replaced later that year with the Sony A7 III when I dunked our old camera in a waterfall in Belize.
My decision to pass on the last campsite bit me in the butt because then I spent forever trying to find a place where I could pull over to sleep. I ended up in what I think used to be a campground, but now there were no facilities or attendants and I didn’t see anywhere to pay, so at least it was free. I was probably trespassing, let’s be honest.
I planned out the rest of my stay at Glacier with the map and newspaper from the Park.
Then I tried to go to sleep but couldn't because it was still light until about 11pm that far North at that time of year.
Glacier National Park (Iceburg Lake and Apgar Lookout)
I knew my next trail was pretty popular, so I had set an alarm for an early start and planned to get a parking spot before getting dressed and eating breakfast there in the lot. I started out just ahead of a guided hike led by a Ranger who was warning folks to always hike in groups in bear country, carry bear spray, and make a lot of noise to avoid startling bears.
I was eagerly looking forward to seeing a bear and was hoping that by doing none of those things I would increase my chances.
But no. The closest I got to any danger was crossing through an avalanche path that had occurred earlier in the year.
The Going to the Sun Road was still closed for the season, so I got a tip from a ranger to drive 49 around to West Glacier for the views. It was spectacular.
While the wildflowers were stunning and there were some cool views, it just wasn't worth the climb.
Glacier National Park (Avalanche and John's Lakes)
My favorite part were these 3 thin waterfalls tricking in the lake from the mountains on the other side. Very pretty.
I found a little side beach to myself for a rest and a snack and then set out to John’s Lake.
The lake itself was very cute, with lots of little floating lily pads and a snow capped mountain reflected on the surface. I moved to take a step into the edge of the lake to get a better angle for the reflection in my photo…
Instead of stepping in just the couple inches of water I was expecting, I immediately plummeted up to my armpits in thick, stinking mud. What is it with mud on this trip?!?!
The poor bathtub drain in the Motel 6 in Butte got completely clogged by the thick mud I was rinsing out of my clothes and boots. Luckily I showered myself first and even shaved my legs and put on nice clothes to go out to a steakhouse for dinner.
No can of soup over a camp stove for me tonight!
I was impressed that I got bread, soup, salad, and my lemon cream chicken over angel hair pasta entree, plus a scoop of ice cream all for under $30. (This was in 2017, I’m sure prices have sky rocketed since.) Back at my hotel room, fat and happy, I planned out the Yellowstone itinerary. It was packed and totally hinged on getting a “first come, first served” campsite for the coming night. After that I had reservations for the next couple of nights.
Yellowstone National Park- Beaver Ponds and Lava Creek
Thankfully, I did get 1 of the 2 remaining spots at the Mammoth Hot Springs Campground.
With that secure, I did the Beaver Ponds Loop which was so lovely and peaceful, not crowded at all in the late afternoon.
There were beautiful trees and meadows and wildflowers. I kept thinking there were so many bright colors that it was enough to hurt your eyes.
Tons of birds were gathered at the ponds and I also saw a mule deer buck with his velvet on. A group I passed said they saw a baby black bear, but it was gone by the time I got there. No luck with bears on this trip!
Afterwards I did Lava Creek Trail, which was not quite worth the 2,000 foot descent to the creek that you walk along for about 5 seconds.
There were some pretty views and I did see a cow elk, so I should still count it as a win.
It was a point-to-point that I planned on walking back, but after I was less than impressed with the hike itself, I decided to hitchhike back to my car. I was actually a little surprised by how many people went by before I got a ride, but it really only took me about 15 minutes. A young lady took me the whole way (about 10 miles). She was working at a ranch during her college summer break that was near my car.
Back at the Mammoth Hot Springs area, I took a couple of pictures of the thermal features, but figured the colors would look even better in the morning light, so I planned an early start for the next day.
Yellowstone- Mammoth Hot Springs, Lamar Valley, Trout Lake, Yellowstone River Trail, Mud Volcano, and Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone (whew!)
Sure enough, the Mammoth Hot Springs was awesome in the brighter light. Lots of amazing colors and interesting textures.
I drove through Lamar Valley and saw a TON of bison and a TON of tourists taking their picture. I enjoyed my looks from the road and didn’t want to join the crowd.
Trout Lake was the next hike I did. It was very short, but picturesque, with the little lake and lots of wildflowers. Mountains and cliffs graced the background. Sure enough, I saw the trout in the lake. I thought the John would like to go there and try fly fishing.
I had lunch at the Yellowstone River picnic area and then walked up the trail to the ridge above and alongside the river. It was just gorgeous and the views went on forever. I almost didn’t make it a loop because I wasn’t looking forward to walking the road back to the car, but I am glad that I did.
Before reaching the road, I saw a lone bison taking a dust bath beside the trail and I had him all to myself. Score!
Also saw an antelope on the final stretch.
After checking in at my campsite, I went to the Mud Volcano area and loved that. The steam vents and mud pools were so cool, but even more than that were the noises and smells the pools made that made you feel like you were on another planet.
A lot of the pots had dragon names which made perfect sense with all the roaring and gurgling, plus the sulphur smell.
As an added bonus, there were several bison beside the pots, enjoying a sauna experience. It made me wonder how they know where it is safe to step so that they don’t fall in and scald themselves.
Next, it was on to see the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. I planned to do the whole North Rim trail, but 2 sections of it were closed. So I did a teeny hike just to see the falls instead. I loved all the colors in the cliffside and it was cool to see an osprey nest down below.
My final stop for the day was a hike to Clear Lake. Even though I was hoping to see a grizzly this whole trip, and I have been enjoying finding moments of solitude out on the trail, I suddenly found myself a little too alone as the sun was setting. I started singing out loud for a morale boost and hoping that a bear would hear me coming and avoid an unpleasant surprise encounter.
I compared the mosquitoes along the trail to the liquid Terminator in the 3rd movie. Nothing could stop them, they just kept coming!
I ended up not making it to the lake because of some thick mud and I had frankly had enough mud encounters that week. Seriously, I was lucky that I survived a place called Mud Volcano. I bailed to the campground shower and passed out after a small dinner of camp food.
Yellowstone National Park- Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, Norris Geyser Basin, Artist's Paint Pots, Firehole Canyon Drive, Fountain Paint Pots, Midway Geyser Basin, Biscuit Basin, and Old Faithful (WHEW!)
I started the next day with a hike along the South Rim of the canyon, including the 328 steps down to Uncle Tom’s drop. The steps are metal grills that you can see through as you step and it makes the way down a little trippy. My mom would have died, since she is afraid of everything, including heights.
I didn't mind the extra exercise, and it was a cool different perspective of the falls from the bottom.
Artist’s Point was very pretty and is still one of my favorite places in all of Yellowstone.
The hike along to Point Sublime was phenomenal with lots of little overlooks, although the Point itself was not any more special than any other views. You could really see the colors in the canyon along the route.
Afterwards, I did a bunch of small roadside stops including Norris Geyser Basin, Artist’s Paint Pots, Firehole Canyon Drive, Fountain Paint Pots, Midway Geyser Basin, Biscuit Basin, and the Old Faithful Geyser Basin.
These were all thermal areas with features like fumeroles (steam vents with high heat and low water) and hot springs (high heat and high water), and geysers (high heat and high water plus plumbing constraints).
Artist’s Paint Pots had those thicker mud bubbles I had expected to see at Mud Volcano. I even caught one on camera mid pop.
All of the features had an amazing variety of colors and shapes and structures and smells and noises. The pools were SO deep and SO clear and SO brightly colored.
My favorite part was the feeling that I could just step right into them and just fall right to the very center of the Earth. It was a very trippy feeling.
And then there were the geysers themselves... I was lucky enough to be in the Old Faithful area when all 5 geysers that have published prediction cycles were "scheduled" to go off within an hour of each other.
They all had plus or minus windows that overlapped so I knew that I wouldn’t actually see them all, but I was hoping to see Daisy and Castle.
I just couldn’t get over how I was sitting there, twiddling my thumbs, wondering if this thing was really going to go off or not and then all of a sudden, there’s a gurgle and a splash and then KASPLOOSH! Off it goes and I was there to see it all.
It really took my breath away and made me smile and giggle to myself.
Daisy is considered small, but unique because it shoots out diagonally. It seemed to go off for FOREVER before dying down. In the meantime, I missed Castle going off. But that was okay, because the show wasn’t over yet for me.
I was about to walk over to Old Faithful, but decided to swing by Grand Geyser which was within its eruption window as well. It’s window has a +/- of 2 hours, so I wasn’t super hopeful, but thought I might get lucky.
A ranger was there telling a couple that he was listening to his radio for the phrase “waves on Grand”. That would mean that the geyser was putting out an almost imperceptible larger amount of water than normal and was therefore about to blow. Just as he finished explaining this, his radio goes “waves on Grand”.
While Old Faithful gets all the attention because it is the EASIEST geyser on the planet to predict, Grand is in fact the TALLEST predictable geyser in the world.
It put on quite a show. Its first eruption went on for seriously 10 minutes and was super tall. Just as we’re all clapping and cheering when the steam was fading away, it goes off again!
The ranger just smiled at all of our shocked reactions and quietly said "yup, the second eruption is always taller".
For both Daisy and Grand, they erupted for so long, I felt like I had plenty of time to take way too many pictures and then was able to put the camera down and just enjoy it through my own eyes instead of a lens.
Then I booked it to Old Faithful right as it was starting to rain. I got a spot I wanted, front row, as the rain started coming down harder and harder. I probably have the rain to thank that I was able to do get such a great spot since other people were waiting it out under the covered areas nearby. I got drenched for 30 minutes until we were well outside of Old Faithful’s famous prediction window. Thankfully only my Marmot Rain Jacket and Frog Toggs Rain Pants got wet while the rest of me was dry inside. I took pictures of other sections of the geyser basin to pass the time.
The clouds slightly parted and after 4 bubbly false starts, Old Faithful roared to life and didn’t disappoint. It was a big check off of my bucket list. I was still riding the wave of excitement from the rest of this awesome day, so this was quite the culminating experience.
I asked a couple to take my photo in front of the dissipating steam column when it was all over and it is one of my favorite pictures of myself.
I was unabashedly happy.
John called and got an earful of my exuberance on my 2 mile walk back to my car past even more pools and geysers.
Again! The color! The clarity! The depth! I arrived back at camp right at dark, ate half a can of soup and some Pringles and crashed
Yellowstone National Park- Natural Bridge, Elephant Back, Lake Yellowstone, West Thumb Geyser Basin, and Shoshone Lake (WHEW!)
In the morning, it was my last day in Yellowstone. I did a small hike up to Natural Bridge and saw my first opposum in the wild along the way.
Then I hiked up Elephant Back Mountain for a view of Lake Yellowstone and the surrounding mountains. Saw some cow elk. I would like to do it again another time around sunset. I really enjoyed the walk through the calm forest even more than the view.
A short-ish hike to Storm Point turned out to be one of my favorite hikes in the whole Park. There was just such a nice variety of forest and meadow and lake and rocky shoreline. Lots of wildflowers and colored grasses rippling in the wind as well.
With a lot of camera balancing and some sprinting, I managed to get a cute photo of myself looking at the water. On one of my trips running back and forth to try to get the right shot, I almost stepped right on a marmot poking his head out from the rocks. Thankfully I was able to be pretty agile on the tricky terrain in my Asolo Hiking Boots.
Then, I drove to West Thumb Geyser Basin which didn’t have very many features, but the ones it did have were pretty spectacular.
Loved the Abyss Pool and a couple of geyser holes that were submerged in the edge of the lake while it was engorged with snow melt.
Finally, I was on my last hike in Yellowstone (for this trip!) to Shoshone Lake. It’s the largest backcountry lake in the Park. It was easy and stunning through the forest and meadows in addition to the picturesque lake itself.
But then on the way home I got absolutely poured on and was pretty cold and miserable by the end of it. I set a record speed of 3 miles an hour on my way out to try to get to the warm car. Thank goodness the new ride had heated seats!
Grand Teton National Park
Then it was ON to TetON! (Yes, when you travel by yourself for too long you make up stupid little songs and saying and jokes all the time.)
I stayed the night at Lizard Creek Campground and went to bed early after doing almost 20 miles a day at Yellowstone.
Grand Teton National Park- Jenny's Lake, Taggart and Bradley Lakes
The rain continued to be the theme for the next couple of days that put a slight damper on things. Those famous jagged peaks were hard to see through the overcast skies, but when they did poke through the clouds, it made for a dramatic and imposing sight.
I went all the way around Jenny's Lake and enjoyed myself despite the constant precipitation.
I did not feel like sitting at my campsite picnic table like a cold, drowned rat so I got lunch at the grill in the lodge to warm up. Then I pushed on to Taggart and Bradley Lakes. Got to play peek-a-boo with an inquisitive moose.
It was at this point that I started thinking I should have taken a rest day between Yellowstone and Teton like I did between Glacier and Yellowstone. I was starting to hurt all over and I was questioning how much I wanted to do the next day before heading home. I planned to go up Death Canyon, but that name was a bit intimidating so I considered switching to do Phelps Lake instead.
Grand Teton National Park- An Intruder, Phelps Lake, and Death Canyon
I awoke super early on the last day of my trip to the sound of tent pegs being pounded into the ground awfully close to where I was sleeping.
Sure enough I looked out and there was someone moving into my campsite before I was even out!
Looking back, I understand his confusion because it must have seemed like I was all packed up and about to leave at any second since everything (including myself!) was in my car. And he had his young daughter with him sleeping in the car and was trying to get camp set up while she was not a distraction. As a parent now, I get his desire to have everything set up before she woke up and demanded more of his time. Plus, I realized it was the start of the 4th of July weekend and I’m sure he was desperately taking the first spot that LOOKED available to him. BUT! At the time, I was LIVID!
I was already feeling kind of down because of the weather and my aching joints. This invasion of my privacy and space was just too much! I verbally lashed into him, not that it seemed to matter to him as he just kept pounding away. At 6:30 in the morning might I add!!! I went to complain to the camp host to see if she could somehow kick him out until 11 when it was check out time. I was hoping he would miss out on the spot. She just kind of shrugged and gave me the chance to buy the next night out from under him because he hadn’t paid yet. I travel on a budget and didn’t want to waste the money when I wasn’t going to spend the night there anyway.
In retrospect, it would have totally been worth the $20-$30 to teach him a lesson.
Seriously dude, you at least talk to the person who is on their way out to ask if it’s okay to move in first! Grrr! My blood pressure is still spiking just thinking about it 6 years later. Okay, moving on…
I clearly had plenty of time for my last Teton hike now! I started out going around Phelps Lake and knew that I would have the chance to add Death Canyon to it if I felt like it along the way. The lake was beautiful and still with lots of birds chirping in the early morning light.
I saw a moose that went down for a drink in the water.
As I continued around, it occurred to me that maybe this approach to Death Canyon would actually be easier than starting at the traditional trailhead. So I decided to add it and was very glad that I did.
It certainly was tough, but I was feeling strong again and the views were great. There weren’t many people out that early on the trail, so I felt like I had this moment all to myself. All of a sudden, I was out in this open meadow surrounded by peaks and cliffs with little streams running by.
Very peaceful and just what I needed to close out the trip on a more positive note.
I had a snack and then on the way back noticed a huge bull moose lying in the shade of one of the last big pine trees before the trail broke out of tree line. I cautiously went by as he casually watched me go. I had never seen a moose lying down before, never been so close to a bull before, and never knew they came up so high before.
The way down and the other half of the lake was stunning and easy.
Finally, it was time for the 8 hour drive home. John had a clean house and dinner ready, plus a fridge full of some of my favorite foods and even flowers on the table to welcome me home. It was our 10 month anniversary. So sweet it’s almost enough to make someone sick. I don’t quite get that kind of “welcome home” anymore now that we’ve been married for a few years and have a toddler.
A Final Thought... My Favorite National Park
When people ask me what is my favorite National Park (since I have been to so many), I am almost ashamed to say Yellowstone because it seems so cliche. But even 6 years later, after many more Parks under my belt, it remains hands down my absolute number one Park. I think it’s the combination of the sheer size, the variety of ecosystems (mountains, forest, meadows, lakes, rivers…), and the abundance of wildlife that makes it so amazing. Many other Parks can make similar claims to fame, but Yellowstone adds the geothermal features that others just don’t have. So there you have it, a favorite I would visit many more times over the following years. See those adventures below!
Additional Reading:
- Wyoming/Montana Camping Road Trip- Coming soon! Subscribe to get the updates when new content is released!
- Yellowstone by Snowmobile- Coming soon! Subscribe to get the updates when new content is released!
- Mama Bears Backpacking Yellowstone- Coming soon! Subscribe to get the updates when new content is released!
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