Wild West Road Trip Part 1
A (mostly) solo road trip with the goal to hike 100 miles in some National Parks of Colorado, Utah, Nevada and California.
July 2016
Table of Contents
But First, A Little Ramble...
It was summer break, so my good friend, Shannon, and I were doing what every teacher does… filling our cups before the new school year began. For us, that meant getting dirty and sweaty and seeing some beautiful nature. For me, that meant having some alone time once Shannon went back home. I would be doing a little soul searching and life prioritizing after ending a 9 year relationship. I had recently discovered the wonder that is our country’s National Park system and was determined to see more of them.
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park- Colorado
We started “close” to home at the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. After a 5 hour drive, we settled into our campsite on the South Rim and attended a Ranger presentation about the animal life in the park. I always try to catch these talks when I can at campgrounds or visitor centers because I always learn such random and interesting facts that then I can uselessly spout at dinner parties for the next year.
For example, did you know that Big Horn Sheep have pupils shaped like rectangles resting on their long side? This helps them have excellent peripheral vision for spotting approaching predators.
The stars were stunning as we were prepping for bed, as one might expect in an International Dark Sky Park, with clear views of the Milky Way and 9 shooting star sightings before closing my eyes. (Or astronaut poop, I guess you never know!)
We woke early (the “crack ass of dawn” as Shannon claimed) for a 6 mile stroll along the South Rim including Uplands, Rim Rock, and Oat Flat trails. We were sort of hoping to see a bear. No luck, but gorgeous views.
Then a quick drive down to Blue Mesa Reservoir in the heat of the day so we could swim. Driving the scenic route back to the North Rim was simply stunning. After snagging a campsite, we took another 3 mile hike up part of Deadhorse Trail as the sun was setting. I think the Ranger presentation was starting to get to Shannon because she thought we were being stalked by a mountain lion the whole way and even swears she heard it growl. I heard a hummingbird zooming past in what could possibly be misconstrued as a growling sound, but I let her believe what she wants. Thankfully we made it back in one piece and even more thankfully our campground neighbor let us borrow their ketchup for our dinner. Thanks friendly camper!
Hiking along the North Rim the following day on North Vista was one of the most surreal experiences of my life. I must point out that I have stood on many a cliff edge in my day, but none have ever made my stomach flip and flop like this one. It was just such a sheer, immense drop!
It was one of those places that makes you feel infinitely small and insignificant in the vastness of the size of those walls and the time it took to carve out this canyon.
Thankfully my Merrill Trail Gloves made me feel confident enough to test the edge and get the best view.
Shannon felt so liberated by the experience, that she decided to flash the natural world, confident that we had the place all to ourselves. Turns out we didn’t, and some hikers coming up behind us may have gotten quite the show. You’re welcome gentlemen.
Arches National Park- Utah
The newly-wed Shannon returned home to her hubby that evening and I continued on solo for the remainder of the trip. My trusty Chevy Sonic was LOADED with gear as I turned onto the scenic route (Hwy 128) towards Moab. I highly recommend going this way from I-70 rather than the US-191 option which is where Google Maps will direct you. I did not think that the scenic route added any extra time, and it was much prettier than the more direct route.
I had just enough daylight for a hike from the Negro Bill trailhead that has since been renamed the Grandstaff trailhead, in honor of the first African American pioneer to settle in Moab.
The trail leads to a HUGE arch that frequently gets missed by people on their way to Arches National Park.
At the end of the trail, just underneath that slender bridge of rock, was an eerily beautiful Great Horned Owl in its nest. We stared at each other unblinking for a few moments and then I noticed the collar dangling below the nest that could have only belonged to an unfortunate pet cat or dog that became supper. Thankfully, I had my distance lens and was able to zoom in enough to crop it out. I had my Sony camera on this trip that later got replaced with the Sony A7 III when I dunked my old camera in a waterfall in Belize.
I stayed the night at Goose Island Campground, spending too much time attempting to capture the gorgeous night sky dramatically cut in half by the cliff face rising up from the campground. I even slept outside my tent so I could soak it all in until my eyes couldn’t stay open a moment longer.
I entered Arches the next morning and started my hike to the Dark Angel along the Devil’s Garden Trail super early to beat the heat (it was August).
I had never been to this Park before and I found myself surprised by the number of arches along this trail. I mean, it IS called ARCHES National Park!
The trail was still pretty crowded despite my early start, so once I reached the Dark Angel, I continued on the “primitive” trail back to make a loop instead of turning around. Suddenly I had the place to myself and could stop and study the tracks made by passing lizards, snacks, insects, and birds in the sand.
I ended up skipping the iconic Delicate Arch as the crowds and heat were becoming unbearable. But I look forward to returning and seeing that part of the Park, in addition to the Double Arch trail.
Instead I went to find a local watering hole called Mill Creek (great place for a dip and a catnap) and a burger and shake at Milt's.
Canyonlands National Park- Utah
I drove to Canyonlands in the late afternoon (it’s crazy how close these two amazing Parks are to each other) and found a campground in the Needles section with a SHOWER (cue heavenly music). I cleaned up and then went for a sunset walk at the Cave Spring Trailhead to see my first ever pictographs.
Different from petroglyphs which are CARVED into the rock, pictographs are made by PAINTING on to the stone.
These ones marked the special site of a spring in this arid environment. A few of them were even made by tracing the artist’s handprints. It was soooooo tempting to reach out and match my hand to that precious moment in history preserved for all this time. But I knew oils and germs from my hand would contribute to the early destruction of the markings, so I refrained myself.
As the sun was dropping, I was most struck by the layers of landscape in Canyonlands. This valley was backed by that cliff which was backed by that rock spire on and on into the distance. Absolutely breathtaking, especially as each layer took on its own color in the fading light. It was definitely a magical moment that I got to enjoy with just myself.
The next day, I set out on what is still to this day (7 years later) one of my favorite hikes. It was a big loop connecting Squaw Canyon and Big Spring Canyon. The scenery doesn’t disappoint and I only encountered one other person the entire day.
In order to connect the trails that follow the canyons, at one point you just climb straight up and over this wall following the cairns. The whole time I was thinking “is this really what I’m supposed to do?!” So worth it.
The only truly scary part of the whole experience was a close encounter with a frog on the trail. (I fear not sharks nor snakes nor spiders nor heights or any of the countless things my mom worries about. But frogs/toads are my kryptonite due to a childhood trauma involving a toy frog and parents who thought it was funny to chase me with it.) You know how your body stops all of a sudden on the trail before your brain actually understands that you see a snake on the path? That’s what my body does with frogs and the words “what do I do!?” literally came out of my mouth.
Leaving Kermit behind, I intended to next visit Capitol Reef and Escalante Grand Staircase. I hadn’t done much research ahead of time on what trailheads I wanted to do and I sort of ended up just driving through and ending up on the wrong side from where I wanted to be. So I pushed on to Bryce Canyon and made my way back to Capitol Reef on another trip.
Bryce Canyon National Park- Utah
I met the hoodoos in the evening sun and had just enough time to run along the Queen’s and Navajo Loop Trail before it was dark.
In the morning, I took a longer and more quiet trail option that took me actually down into the formations instead of just viewing them from the top (Fairyland Trail). Sometimes, when you spend a lot of time by yourself, you talk to yourself to pass the time. This was one of the few occasions that I apparently made up a joke to tell myself, it goes…
Knock knock!
Who’s there?
Hoo.
Hoo who?
No silly, they’re called hooDOOS!
Don’t worry reader, I am also rolling my eyes at myself.
It was at this point in the trip that I had seen and heard a lot of international travelers. Despite seeming a bit unprepared for the heat and required physical activity it took to traverse some of these routes, they were here for the same reasons I was. In my journal, I noted that I heard the phrase “holly sheet!” a lot. There were certainly many times along this trip that I felt the desire to express a similar sentiment. It was one of the first times I truly recognized that people are PEOPLE, no matter what they may look like or where they may come from. I was crossing paths with folks from a variety of places and backgrounds and ages and all of us were appreciating the beauty of our Mother Earth. Even now writing about this experience 7 years later, I am blown away by the vastness and the beauty and the wonder of these places.
I am a lucky, lucky girl to have had the chance to set my feet upon these trails and my eyes upon these scenes.
Zion National Park- Utah
I can’t say enough great things about the shuttle system at Zion. It was running long before other National Parks took on the idea, so this was my first time navigating the schedules and routes. It certainly was easier than sitting in traffic or circling a parking lot on a busy weekend day.
That's the part about National Parks that can sometimes kill me. They are too great for their own good.
People from all over the world are trying to leave behind their workday commute and their concrete surroundings to immerse themselves in nature, but there are just too many of us for Park infrastructures to support sometimes. As I did in Arches, I’m not afraid to “miss out” on the iconic singular feature of a place if it means I can find a little more tranquility in a less crowded part of a Park. I figure I can always come back and try again if I am feeling too overwhelmed, perhaps coming in a shoulder season or earlier/later in the day. So I skipped The Narrows for my refreshing dip in the Virgin River, and took the Big Bend stop instead for a quieter spot to soak. Then I did part of the East Rim Trail (only part because I ran out of light) which had lovely views.
In 2016, you did not need a permit to hike Angel’s Landing, so the next day I boarded the very first shuttle to try to beat the crowds. Well, a bus load of other people had the same idea as me, so we trekked along together up the very steep trail and then the super fun and super sketchy scramble at the top. I appreciated that at least we were the first group headed up, so on those extra narrow sections we didn’t have to contend with folks who were on their way down.
Also in 2016 was the centennial celebration of the founding of the National Park Service. It was here in Zion that I got my black baseball cap with the year on it to commemorate that milestone. You’ll see that hat getting progressively dirtier and smooshed on the pages featuring subsequent adventures.
Great Basin National Park- Nevada
In contrast to the bustle of Zion, Great Basin has so much to offer but I don’t think it’s quite made it to the top of many people’s Bucket Lists.
So I found some much needed calm here amongst the oldest living things in the world.
When I arrived in the evening after a long day of driving, I just wanted to stretch out my body and take a chill walk so I chose the Bristlecone Grove Interpretive Trail. So glad I did. I learned more of those useless dinner party facts that explain why the Bristlecone can live for over 3,000 years, including their slow growth rates and their resistance to insects and rot.
That evening, I participated in a free star gazing experience at the Visitor Center (Great Basin is another Dark Sky Park). Thank you to all the folks who set up these experiences and educate visitors about the night sky.
Only through these opportunities can we appreciate and then hope to save something as seemingly commonplace as darkness.
Speaking of the dark, I took a tour of Lehman Caves while I was here. It was my first guided experience underground and it definitely sparked an interest in spalunking that continued into other trips all over the country. Lehman Caves is one of the few places where you can see a Cave Shield, an incredibly rare structure.
I also did part of Osceola Ditch Trail here and would recommend it as well. I was inspired to become an actual tree hugger.
Yosemite National Park- California
Yosemite is another popular park, although I certainly understand why so many crowd here when they can. It was pretty easy to choose the cover photo for this whole page because as I was scrolling through my gallery of options, that photo was the one that made me say “wow” out loud. Seven years later, I had kind of forgotten how stunning the Yosemite Valley is. That being said, I found myself going back to my 2 rules for hiking in congested areas, “start early and hike far”. Usually I end up leaving a lot of the other visitors behind after about mile 4. Or simply pick a trailhead as you drive along that has few or no cars parked at it.
Sure, you might miss "the thing" to see at that park, but you're going to have a lovely wilderness experience all to yourself.
That’s how I ended up at Harden Lake, which probably no one reading this has ever heard of. It was quiet and just what I needed that first evening to ease into Yosemite.
The following morning I got a start at first light to Nevada Falls and had half of the trail to myself before other started to arrive as I was on my way out. One of my favorite hikes from this trip for sure, with sweeping views and all the water, even a pack mule train coming down the John Muir Trail.
During the heat of the day, I found a spot on the water for a soak and some reading. I tried to do some creative photography with some flowers in front of El Cap. I am a proud rock climber, but gosh THAT looks intense!
I got a later than intended start for my evening hike on the Taft Pt. and Sentinel Dome Loop.
Wonderful spot for a sunset with lots of the Valley features visible and changing color as the light ebbed.
I got turned around in the dark on my way back and ended up at the wrong trailhead, miles from my car. Thank you to the lovely family who picked me up on the side of the road and brought me to my car, your kindness is greatly appreciated.
Got a classic Yosemite Valley photo on my way out the next day that would later become the profile photo for my Match account, where I would meet the man I would end up marrying.
King's Canyon National Park- California
I always root for the underdog Parks, and King’s Canyon feels like one of them. So close to Sequoia and even Yosemite, it probably is often overlooked. I did just a couple of tiny trails here at Panoramic Point and Giant Tree Trail. So yes, even I sort of short changed the place by not giving it more time in my itinerary. I promise to come back and do it justice better next time!
It was interesting to learn that King's Canyon, not Sequoia, has the widest sequoia tree on record and also the deepest canyon in the U.S. Yup, deeper than the Grand Canyon!
Sequoia National Park- California
I got hopelessly lost in the Giant Forest Trail System and ended up walking for 11 miles. It’s not so much that the trail system itself is confusing, it’s that I was too busy breaking my neck looking up at all the trees to notice important intersections.
Even though they are shorter than the redwoods, the sequoias still beckon the unsuspecting visitor to look up, up, up until you feel like you need a neck brace by the end of the day.
Sequoias are the most massive trees on the planet… one that I decided to try to walk around took 26 huge steps to circumvent.
My favorite part about the sequoias was to see the burn damage many of them have suffered and then to look up and be amazed that they were still alive on the top. Some trees were completely hollowed out, standing on what looked like stilts, the damage was so bad, and yet there were the green branches above.
It was a nice visual for how people can live through trauma and, although they may forever bear the scars, still flourish.
I’ve officially met General Sherman and liked the name so much that I bestowed it upon the largest and most stately tree on my property in Colorado. It was here (with all those extra accidental miles in the grove) that I passed the 100 mile mark, the goal for my trip.
Joshua Tree National Park- California
I LOVED the plant life at Joshua Tree. This is the Park that led to further explorations of desert habitats later in my life. I never would have thought there would be such variety or that I would be so interested in the ways that plants have adapted for this environment. I really got to see a lot unique plants along the Lost Palm Oasis hike.
Who would have guessed that it would be in the DESERT of all places that I would fall in love with plants!
I then did some tiny trails at various stops along the road to see even more: Cholla Cactus Garden, Arch Rock, Cap Rock, and Hi-View.
The boulder formations here were an added bonus that I wasn’t expecting. They were super fun to climb around on.
Death Valley National Park- California
My trip was coming to an end, but I’m glad I didn’t pass up Death Valley even though it never dropped below 90 degrees my entire visit, even overnight.
I couldn't tolerate my sleeping bag or tent and instead slept half naked on my yoga mat on top of the picnic table to try to get way from the heat radiating off of the ground.
Not the right time for my Kelty 0 Degree Sleeping Bag, which felt great in the other places on this trip.
Open air sleeping at least enabled me to enjoy the stars in yet another Dark Sky Park. Since I was so uncomfortable anyway, it was no big deal to be at the trailhead when it was barely light enough to see. That enabled me to really enjoy Mosaic Canyon and take my time examining all its unique rock features.
By the time the sun was breaching the canyon walls, I was already in my car headed for the salt flats. I jumped out for a quick picture in 112 degrees. Then I was off on my 14 hour drive home to Colorado.
In Reflection
This trip was the first of many (mostly) solo road trips to National Parks. I learned that my preferred pace of travel looks like waking up at “the crack ass of dawn” and hiking at least 10 miles, then finding a place to laze in a creek or in the grass with my book until it’s time for my evening hike.
I sleep best with nothing between me and the stars and really only need a shower when that line around my ankle at the edge of my shoe seems like it's more ingrained dirt than a tan line.
The only time I set aside for myself to eat was while enjoying the view on a hike or in the car on the way to the next place. It’s a fast pace that not many can keep up with, let alone enjoy, but it works for me. It’s still how I prefer to see the world, although now I have a toddler so I am learning to adjust to a slower pace. I discovered a love of National Parks on this trip that persists to this day, necessitating a stop at a Park in any country I visit. It was the first time I had ever been West of my home in Colorado, but inspired several subsequent trips to revisit some places and meet others that I didn’t have time for in Part 1. See below!
Additional Reading
- Wild West Road Trip Pt. 2
- Wild West Road Trip Pt. 3- Coming soon! Subscribe to get the updates when new content is released!
- Wild West Road Trip Pt. 4- Coming soon! Subscribe to get the updates when new content is released!
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